Third to william h



(HOMO dell) i "what -$11M a..

W. 0. OOLLYER. snwme momma oa LASTIYNGYBOOTS on SHOES. No. 546,695. [P tented Sept. 24, 1 95.

'. INVENTUR;

ANDREW B.GIANAM.FHQT1ITHU.WA5"|NGTDILllc.

l rfllllllllllllILIIIILWWI I UNITED STATEs PATENT OFFIC WILLIAM G. COLLYER, OF READING, MASSACHUSETTS, ASS IGNOR OF ONE- THIRD To WILLIAM H.-PERKINS, OF SAME PLACE/ SEWING-MACHINE FOR LASTIN G BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 546,695, dated September 24, 1895. Application filed November 19,1894. Serial No. 529,234- (No model.)

T0 on whom it may-concern.-

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM C. OOLLYER, of Reading, in the county of Middlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Uniting Uppers and Soles of Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to machines for uniting uppers and soles of boots and shoes, and has in View for one thing an improved arrangement of last-supporting jack whereby the operator is enabled to hold the last in any position required, and at the same time an automatic-feed mechanism may be applied to the jack.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved arrangement of stitchforming and lasting devices on a universallymovable support under control of the operator, which arrangement, together with that of the jack, enables the operator to work close to the last all the time, and therefore turn out a perfectly-sewed shoe.

The invention involves numerous combinations of parts, all of which will be found re cited in the appended claims.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, of which- Figure 1 shows the complete machine in side elevation. Fig. 2 shows it in plan. Fig. 3 shows it in front elevation. Fig. 4 shows a section on line 4 4 of Fig. 3 on an enlarged scale. Fig. 5 shows a section on line 5 5 of Fig. 2. Figs. 6 and 7 show sections on lines 6 6 and 7 7, respectively, of Fig. 5. Fig. 8 shows a section on line 8 8 of Fig. 4. Fig. 9 shows a perspective view of a portion of a partly-sewed shoe, together with certain parts of the machine which directly engage the work. Y

The letter a designates a supporting-column made in sections, with screw-threads at 0. to

the attendant controls by means of a handle g. The journal of the frame a is a shaft 1), which carries a clutch member I) and a camgrooved cylinder o and at the forward part of the frame there is a transversely-sliding tubular rod b having affixed to it a collar 19 A horizontally-swinging lover I) is pivoted to an ear of the frame and carries a rollerequipped pin at oneend in the groove of the cylinder 5 and at the other end is connected by a link I) with the collar b A standard 0, erected on the frame, supports a quadrantal rocker c, and there is a lever c suspended from one end of said rocker and slotted to embrace the rod h The said lever at the upper end of its slot fits between two lugs of a bracket o fastened to the collar b and in the reciprocations of said collar, received through vibration of the lever b by the cam b the lever o is oscillated.

A curved needle 0 is fastened in a holder 0 formed on the lower end of the lever 0 and the oscillations of the lever take the needle through the work which is held for it in a manner hereinafter described. A bifurcated guide d depends from a bracket 01' on the frame and receives a lip of the inner sole in its bifurcation, (see Fig. 9,) and is notched in the rear side to accommodate the needle. A slotted presser-foot c bears against the upper and holds it against the guide 01 and is pivoted to a bracket 0 on the frame and held by aspring 0 against the work. Thepivot of the presser-foot c is extended downward to support a conical rest it for the upper to bear against where itlies over the side of the last, this conical rest sustaining the last laterally. The needle passes through the slot of the presser-foot and the notch of the guide (1 and has a suitably-located barb to engage the thread 2,"which runs through an eye in the end of ahook-shaped thread-guide e, located on the outer side of the lip-guide d. Said thread-guide is fastened in an arm 6, affixed to a shaft 6 which is journaled in a bearing on the frame and carries a crank-arm a The latter is jointed to an arm a, of an eccentric strap e embracing an eccentric e on the shaft '1). Through these connections it will be s'een that an up-and-down vibration of the threadguide is obtained. In the downward move- Ioo ment the thread is engaged with the needle, and in the upward movement the threadguide acts as a take-up to tighten the stitch. The ordinary chain-stitch is used, and is so common in the art as to need no further explanation.

In conjunction with the needle, lastingpinchers are arranged to operate on the upper, and theyhave in addition totheir opening-andclosing movement an up-and-down and also lateral movement, so that they may be caused to move down and inward when open to position for grasping the work and then grasp the work and move up and outward to stretch the upper over the last and hold it so while the needle penetrates it. One memberfof the piuchers is connected at its upper end through a link f with the quadrantal rocker c, and by a link f" with the pendent portion of the bracket d, and the other memberf which is pivoted to the memberf, is connected bya link f with a rod f fitting through the tube 0 Said rod f is slotted to receive a pin f (see Fig. 5) fastened in the tube, and there is a spiral springf surrounding the rod between a shoulder thereof and the said pin, so that movement of the tube is transmitted to the rod through this spring. The object of this spring arrangement is to afford a relief when the piuchers have fully closed on the work and the needle has not completed its thrust. \Vhen the needle is withdrawn, the piuchers stand open and at theirlowest position readyto grasp the work. Upon movement of the needle toward the work the piuchers are closed and also a slight movement is imparted to the rocker c, which causes the piuchers to be elevated by reason of the fact that the movement of the bracket 0 rectilinearly will produce motion in the rocker through the lever 0 when the latter has passed a vertical central line embracing its pivot. \Vhcn the piuchers are thus elevated, they are also moved out by the movement of the link f" in the arc of a circle. Thus it will be seen that the piuchers have the effect of lasting the upper.

Operation of the stitch-forming and lasting devices above described is controlled by the attendant through a shipper-lever h, which has a handle h conveniently located, and is connected with a clutch-pulley 7L2, rotating loosely on the shaft b and longitudinally movable thereon to engage it with and disengage it from the clutch member I).

Passing on to the work-supporting and feeding devices, thelettert'designates a turn-table, which is mounted on the platform a and carries aflixed to it a ratchet-wheel t" and also a diametrieal slide-way In the latter fits a slide 73', having swiveled to it a bracket or holder 2, between whose arms there is pivoted a last-support comprising a block i having divergent arms 2' and W, a sleevej adjustable on the arm i a heel-pin j pivoted between ears on said sleeve and having a lateral arm j recessed for engagement of an expansive spring a, and a toe-rest j adjustable on the arm i The last 3 fits on the heel-pin 7' and is pressed against the toe-rest by the spring w.

The above-described last-supporting jack can be both turned and rocked cndwise by the attendant, so that he can control its position as well as if he held it in his hands, as usual. This capability of the jack and the capability of universal movement of the support for the stitching and lasting devices together give the attendant such control of the machine as to conform it at all times to the contour of the shoe and cause the stitches to be taken close to the last at all parts of the shoe.

Means are employed to impart to the jack both a rectilinear step-by-step feed motion in the direction of its length and a step-by-step rotary feed motion to round the heel and toe, as follows: A lever k is pivoted on the platform a so as to swing horizontally, and at its forward end it carries a spring-pressed pawl in engagement with the ratchet-wheel i. At the opposite end the said lever carries a roller-equipped pin, which engages a camgroove in a cylinder 7& on a shaft k in bearings on the platform. It willbe seen that rotation of the cam 75 will prod uce step-bystep rotation of the turn-table.

A pitman m loosely embraces the stud i", on which the bracket 1' swivels, and to the said pitman is jointed a rod m, which is connected through a universal joint m with the lower end of a lever m pivoted at its upper end to the head a A segmental ratchet m", pivoted to a pendent ear of said head,is connected by a rod m with thelever m and an arm 011,lpivoted on the journal of said ratchet, carries a spring-pressed pawl m for engagement with the latter. The arm m is conneeted by a link m with a crank m on the shaft Z1 and receives a vibratory motion through this means. The vibratory motion of the arm causes the pawl to move the ratchet step by step and the intermittent motion is transmitted through the connections described to the slide 13.

When the last is to move reetilinearly in stitching along the sides of the shoe, the turn-table is locked to prevent accidental rotation thereof, the lock being in the form of a pin or bolt n, which slides up through the platform and enters a socket in the turn-table. Of course, under this adjustment the table-turning means are thrown out of operation. A single performance by the attendant unlocks the table, renders operative the table-turning means, and renders inoperative the devices which move the jack-carrying slide, the arrangement for accomplishing this being of the following description: A treadle o is connected by an extensible link 0 with a lever 0 which is pivoted centrally to a hearing on the under side of the platform a and held up on the front side of its pivot by a spring 0 The forward end of said lever is connected with the bolt n, and the rear end is connected with one arm of a bell-crank lever 0 which occupies a plane transverse to the lever 0 and has its vertical arm in engagement with aclutch-pulloy 0 loose on the shaft 7.9 and arranged to move longitudinally to engage it with and disengage it from a clutch-disk 0 affixed to the shaft. The lever o carries affixed to it an upright tappet-rod p, which acts against one arm of a bell-cranklever 13', whose other arm abuts the end of an elongated plate 79 hung bya link p from the pivot of the lever m The forward end of the plate p is arranged to act against the pawl m to disengage it from the ratchet and said forward end of the plate is supported by a pin q fastened in the arm m and engaging a slot in the plate. It will now be seen that depression of the treadle withdraws the bolt it, shifts the pulley 0 into engagement with the clutch-disk 0 and throws the pawl m out of engagement with the ratchet m.

The letter ,2 designates the driving-shaft, which is mounted in an upward extension of the lower member of the column a, and carries a pulley z for receiving motion and two other pulleys .2 and 2 one connected byabelt z with the pulley h and the other being connected by a belt 25 with the pulley 0 I employa compensating arrangement for keeping the belts taut in the formpf an arm y, pivoted to the head a and equipped with sheaves y and 3 the belt Z being passed around the sheave 'y' and the two stretches of the belt being passed between the sheaves 1 This arrangement compensates for changes in the relative positions of the pulleys, due to adjustment of the upper section of the column a.

The machine is intended to stitch the upper of the shoe to a lip of the inner sole, and in the particular style of shoe intended to be operated upon this lip is formed by a marginal portion of one thickness of material, the inner sole being composed of two thicknesses of material secured together on a line somewhat back from their edges.

The general operation of the machine is as follows: The last-jack having been properly adjusted and the last with the work upon it having been fitted on the jack, the stitching is to be commenced-say, for example, at the toe and continued along one side to the heel. The parts are in the adjustment shown in Fig. 1, the turn-table being locked and the pawl m being in engagement with the ratchet m. The attendant, by using the handle 9, brings the stitching-head over the Work, and the free marginal portion 1; of the outer thickness of the inner sole o is engaged with the bifurcation of the guide 01, while the upper to is inserted between the resser-foot c and the said guide (Z and into the open pinchers. The jack is adjusted to bring that portion of the work where the stitch is to be taken as close as possible to the needle, and then by operating the lever h the attendant moves the pulley k into engagement with the clutch-disk b, and thereby sets in operation the stitch-forming and lasting devices hereinbefore de- Kta' scribed, and also the means for moving the jack-slide step by step inits slide-way. As the needle advances, the pinchers close on the upper and move up and out, stretching said upper over the last. The needle penetrates the upper and the lip of the inner sole while the pinchers are holding the upper tight and the thread-guide engages the thread with the needle, so that thelatter in receding carries a loop of the thread with it for the stitch. As the needle recedes, the pinchers loosen their grip on the upper and move down and inward for a new hold, and while they remain open the feed motion takes place, carrying the slide one step in the direction of itslength. At the same time the thread-guide in its upward movement draws the stitch tight. When the heel is reached, the attendant depresses the treadle 0 and the table i is turned halt-way round step by step, while the stitching continues, after which half-rotation of the table the treadle is released and the rectilinear feed resumed to stitch the shoe along the other side. The toe is rounded in the same way as the heel. It is to be noted that when the turntable is rotated the segmental ratchet is released from the pawl and will be moved back to its initial position by reason of the jacklast describing an orbit about the center of the table. As the work is fed the guide d acts as a plow in turning up the marginal portion of the outer thickness of the inner sole. Fig. 9 shows the position of parts just before a stitch is taken.

What I claim as my invention is as follows:

1. In a machine for uniting uppers and soles of bootsand shoes, the combination of a lastjack comprising a turn-table having a slideway, a slide fitting said Way, a holder horizontally swiveled to said slide, and a last-support on said holder; feed mechanism applied to the slide; and feed mechanism applied to the turntable.

2. In a machine for uniting uppers and soles of boots and shoes, the combination of a lastjack comprising a turn-table having a slide way, a slide fitting said way, a holder horizontally swiveled to said slide, and a last-support pivotally mounted on the said holder to per mit endwise tilting; feed mechanism applied to the slide; and feed mechanism applied to the turn-table.

3. In a machine for uniting uppers and soles of boots and shoes, the combination of a lastjack comprising a swiveled member and a slid in g member; feed-mechanisms for moving the sliding jackmember stop -bystep and for turning the swiveled member step-by-step; clutch mechanism for rendering the feedmechanisms operative or inoperative; a lock for the swiveled jack-member; and a controlling device as a treadle operatively connected with the clutch mechanism and withthe lock.

4. In a sewing machine for uniting uppers and soles of boots and shoes, the combination of a last-jack comprising an endwise tilting last-support and a swiveled holder therefor;

IIO

ri x

and stitch-forming devices on a universally movable head under control of the attendant.

5. In a sewing machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination with stitch-forming devices including a vibratory needle; of lasting pinchers controlled in their action by the movements of the said needle.

6. In a sewing machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination with stitclrforming devices including a vibratory needle and a reciprocating driver therefor, of lasting pinchers operatively connected with said driver whereby they are opened and closed by the same, connections between the vibratory necdle and the pinchers whereby they are raised and lowered, and means for moving the pinchers laterally in their vertical movement.

7. In a sewing machine for uniting uppers and soles of boots and shoes, the combination of a bifurcated guide for turning up and holding a lip of the sole, said guide having a transverse needle-opening, a bifurcated presserfoot arranged to press the upper against said guide, a side rest for the last, a needle arranged to pass through the bifurcation of the presser-foot and the opening in the guide, a thread-guide on the outer side of the lip-guide, and lasting pinehers on the inner side of the latter.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 27th day of October, A. D. 18%.

\VILLlAM G. COLL YER.

Witnesses:

F. l. DAVIS, HORACE BROWN. 

